Surfin'

Wednesday Jun 16, 2004

Though eager and enthused, fear ran through my body as we approached the beach. Being tethered to a huge and heavy board while attempting to mock gravity and nature by balancing on her waves seemed a bit out of my element. But with a quick lesson on the beach from Gabe and his coaching in the water I assumed the worst thing that could happen is I would get knocked out by my board and drown.

We ran into the water and jumped onto our board, ducking waves all the while we paddled deeper into the salty ocean. Gabe explained, "When you see one you like turn the board towards the beach, lay on your belly arching your back up, and then jump up to standing as the wave carries you." Simple enough, right?

I could barely balance myself on the board simply laying on it. The mixture of the wax against my body and the salt in my eyes and mouth already had put me in a foul and un-athletic mood. Nontheless, Gabe's enthusiasm and love of life is contagious so I soon forgot my qualms and found myself aboard a wave. I did just as he said and found myself half standing on the board. Unfortunately I was not quite centered and the board dropped me back into the depths.

"Not bad, I can do this," I thought. As I moved back out to sea to catch another wave something held me back. Slowly gathering on my tether was approximately 5 pounds of nasty seaweed that seemed to have grapes and fans and all sorts of strange sea vegetation grouped together. After a 5 minute struggle to free myself as I got slammed by wave after wave it took a lot of convincing to turn myself back around to give my budding surfing career one more time. If it hadn't been for my ears suddenly being filled with memories of Surfin' USA I might have hung up my tether for good. But as a resident Californian and soon to be So. Cal man, I thought it my duty to give sufring an honest shot.

Propelled by Brian Wilson's sweet tenor timbre I began paddling my way out to sea. Hard rushing and roaring white waves kept crushing my head as I attempted to find my way to the Big Kahuna. I kept swimming ignoring the stinging in my eyes and lungs believing that if I got up on just one wave this would all be worth it. Soon I reached the row of surfers and turned around on my board and waited for the perfect wave.

There in the distance a rumbling wave began to develop. Though it already had quite a bit of break in it I knew I was going to give it a chance. I planted myself on the board facing the beach and began to arch my back. The sound of the wave overwhelmed Brian Wilson and I got mentally ready. "Wait for it, Wait for it..." I felt the back of the board make contact with the wave and I began to be propelled forward. I counted in my head, "3-2-1..." And I jumped up. Both feet made square contact with the board. Would I ride this wave to victory? Was this the beginning of a brilliant extreme sports career? Would the other surfers be able to contain their admiration and jealousies?

They would have no reason to. The board went one way and I the other. Swept up in tumbling wave after wave I spent the good part of a minute under water fearing my board which was a full tightened tether length away would snap back and knock me out. In between waves I was able to gain my bearings enough to bolt to the board to prevent it from recklessly tumbling about. Now very close to the beach and once again covered in sea vegetation I decided that this in fact would be the end of my day at sea.

Whether it was the salt, the fear, the wax against chest hair, or simply the lack of training that ended my first day surfing one will never know. Will I go again? That too remains to be seen.

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Surfin'

Wednesday Jun 16, 2004